Dreaming of shade you can actually sit under in February — without cooking? Start by defining needs, not products. And if you’re trying to benchmark the cost of a pergola, keep reading: this guide covers approvals, structure, materials, drainage, and sequencing so your build looks sharp and lasts, with practical tips on span sizing, footings, flashing details, and the small choices that keep summer storms quiet and neighbours happy.

Start with outcomes (then pick a type)

Before you debate aluminium vs timber, write a quick brief.

• Use cases: weekday lunch shade, evening BBQ zone, kids’ rainy-day play, or a quiet morning coffee spot.

• Orientation: west-facing needs serious glare control; north wants adjustable shade; southerly locations may prioritise wind screening.

• Maintenance reality: two hours a month or “set and forget”? Your material choice flows from this.

• Budget band: decide a range (e.g., $10–15k, $25–35k). That steers span, automation and finishes.

Field note: In Ashfield, a tiny courtyard needed winter sun and summer shade. We specced open battens with a deciduous climber and a removable summer sail. Cheaper than louvres; perfect for the brief.

Approvals in NSW (the simple version)

Small pergolas can often be built as Exempt Development if you hit the numbers on height, size, setbacks and location. If you miss one of those, consider Complying Development (CDC) or a DA. For a plain-English ruleset, see balconies, decks, patios, pergolas, terraces and verandahs to check your project’s pathway and paperwork.

Quick compliance cues

• Measure overall height and boundary setbacks early.

• Check overlays (heritage, bushfire, flood) before you draw.

• If fixing to the house, confirm the façade structure and flashing strategy.
  
  

Structure first: Spans, fixings, footings

A pergola is only as good as its bones.

• Posts & beams: Long, clean spans need deeper sections or steel. Don’t chase wafer-thin lines at the expense of stiffness — bounce feels cheap.

• Footings: Soil dictates depth and diameter. On clay or fill, expect deeper piers. Keep timber out of splash zones with stirrups or pedestal mounts.

• Fixing to the house: Ledger fixings must bite into the structure (not just the brick veneer). Flash above and behind so water always exits over the cladding.

• Wind resistance: Open structures still take wind loads. Use knee braces or concealed steel to stop racking and squeaks.

Coastal tweak: In Maroubra, we swapped a timber beam for a slim RHS steel hidden in a batten profile. Same look, better span, no mid-bay post killing circulation.

Materials: Aluminium, steel, timber, and neat combos

Aluminium

• Pros: low maintenance, corrosion-resistant with quality powdercoat, pairs perfectly with adjustable louvres.

• Watch-outs: design drainage well to avoid noisy drips; darker colours can show heat shimmer near glazing.

Timber (hardwood/treated softwood)

• Pros: warm, easy to modify, vine-friendly.

• Watch-outs: regular oil/paint cycles; pick treatment class for posts near soil; use stainless fixings near the coast.

Steel

• Pros: slim profiles and long spans; crisp modern look.

• Watch-outs: galvanise/hot-dip where appropriate; paint systems need touch-ups near salt air.

If you’re weighing the trade-offs for longevity, maintenance, and span, park this read and scan 'Aluminium vs Timber Pergola'.

Roof options: Control light, heat, and rain

• Open battens: soft shade, vine-friendly, lowest cost; add a seasonal sail for summer.

• Polycarbonate sheets: filtered light and rain protection; specify heat-reducing tints and anti-drip profiles.

• Fixed metal roof: full weather cover; includes downpipes and considers skylight panels to prevent dark interiors.

• Louvered systems: adjustable shade and rainproof when closed; motorised controls add cost but boost usability.

Glare & heat tip: West sun is brutal. Combine roof choice with vertical screening or a deciduous tree to tame low-angle glare.

Drainage and waterproofing (the silent failures)

Most call-backs trace to water.

• Falls: Even “flat” roofs need a fall to a gutter; hide pitch within the fascia line if aesthetics matter.

• Downpipes: Don’t dump onto paving; connect to stormwater where possible.

• Wall junctions: Back-flashings, head flashings and sill trays at every penetration; sealant is not a waterproofing system.

• Surface water: Where paving meets beds, add a gravel soak line or strip drain to keep thresholds dry.

Lesson from Lane Cove: A slightly bigger sump and leaf-guard fixed noisy overflow in summer storms. Small money, big livability win.

Finishes that last

• Timber: Oil for a natural look (more frequent) or paint/stain for longer cycles. Prep is 80%: clean, sand, prime, then coat.

• Aluminium: Choose an exterior-grade powder coat with a written warranty; rinse salt monthly near the coast.

• Steel: Start with galvanising; use compatible primers/topcoats and seal cut edges.
  
  

Lighting, power, and accessories

• Lighting: Path/step safety first; then soft uplight into rafters for glow without glare.

• Power: GPOs for grills/heaters; plan weatherproof enclosures and switching points.

• Heating: Radiant panels beat mushroom heaters under a roof.

• Fans: Great for mozzie drift and summer evenings; check blade clearances to beams.

Build a sequence that keeps things calm

A tidy order prevents chaos:

1. Set-out & services locate: measure twice; mark lines and levels; find stormwater/gas/electric.

2. Footings and posts: dig, pour, set stirrups; plumb and fix posts.

3. Beams & rafters: square it now — wonky frames haunt finish lines.

4. Roofing/drainage: sheets or louvres first; gutters, sumps, and downpipes connected.

5. Electrical first-fix: cabling and switching in before linings.

6. Finishes & coatings: coat timber/steel, fit screens, seal trims.

7. Commission & tidy: motor test (if louvred), hose-test gutters, set lighting scenes.
   
   

Cost drivers you can actually control

Not all dollars are equal. Here’s where cost moves:

• Span and posts: longer, cleaner spans need bigger beams or steel — costs rise fast.

• Roof type: louvred systems add motors, controls and seals; they’re more usable but pricier.

• Materials: aluminium/steel outlay is higher; timber looks fantastic, but trades time for maintenance.

• Site access: tight lanes = more labour. Crane time adds quickly in the inner suburbs.

• Finishes: premium powdercoats or hardwood grades move the needle more than you think.
  
  

Smart savings

• Shorten spans slightly to step down a beam size.

• Keep shapes simple; every angle change adds labour and flashing complexity.

• Pre-wire for screens/heaters now and add them later without rework.

Maintenance that keeps it looking new

• Quarterly: quick washdown; clear gutters and sumps.

• Half-yearly: tighten fixings, check movement at wall junctions, re-seal small gaps.

• Annually: refresh oil/paint as needed; service louvred systems (clean blades, check seals, re-calibrate).
  
  

DIY or hire? Read this before you decide

DIY makes sense for small timber pergolas on simple sites. Hire a pro when you’re:

• Fixing to a dwelling façade,

• Working with steel/aluminium systems,

• Managing tricky drainage or overlays (heritage/bushfire/flood), or

• Chasing Exempt/CDC compliance without guesswork.
  
  

If you’d like a ready-to-share how-to for clients or team members, build an internal explainer on pergola installation tips covering footings, fixings, and flashing.

Final thoughts

Pick the pergola that serves your daily life, not just a pretty photo. Confirm your approval pathway early, design for sun and water first, then choose structure and materials that match your maintenance appetite. Keep spans honest, roof drainage quiet, and junctions properly flashed. Do that and your new shade won’t just look good — it’ll work on the hottest, wettest days too.